Use Zinsser Cover Stain Sealer for Problems with blisters popping up through sheetrock mud when applying mud over eggshell paint or just applying eggshell paint over eggshell paint

“Use Zinsser Cover Stain Sealer as primer for Problems with blisters popping up through sheetrock mud when applying mud over eggshell paint or just applying eggshell paint over eggshell paint”

I have experienced this many, many times in the past few years. Here’s my take on the problem and how i fix it.

First: I have only have this problem when applying mud over an eggshell paint. when i put mud over flat paint i have never had a problem.

Second: I decide how much of the area i need to apply mud to, then i get an oil based primer made by Zinsser called “Cover Stain”, and i paint that spot about a foot or two past where I’ll be spreading the mud on. The zinsser cover stain seals the eggshell paint somehow as not to allow the mud to react with the eggshell paint.

Be sure to allow the cover stain to dry for the reccomended time. and be sure not to get any paint on anything, it’s oil based and wont come off when dry. you can get it off however by using mineral spirits before it dries.

I have also had this problem when painting new paint over old paint when i didn’t even do any Sheetrock repair. There’s something in the eggshell paints that reacts with other eggshell paints and causes blisters to pop up. when this happens i have tried everything from putting cover stain on it to allowing it to dry for days before painting it again. The only thing i have been able to do is when i roll paint over the blister, i only roll over it one time and don’t continually go over it. I allow it to dry and most of the time it will dry up and you won’t see it the next day when dry. If you must re-coat it, do it the same way by only rolling paint on the blister one time and let it dry.

I have put zinsser cover stain over the wall several times before and kept getting bubbles pop up. I just keep painting it and fixing it until it’s done, which is very frustrating. But that’s the cost of using eggshell paint and putting it over old eggshell paint. the people at the paint store said there is no fix for it, but these are the fixes i came up with.

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Good luck!

Please ask any questions you may have and I’ll try to answer them.  Shannon

Reply to comment about painting over latex paint with oil paint

Reply to comment about painting over latex paint with oil based paint

Over the last 5 years of doing painting on old houses that all have oil based paint on them i have had to remove latex paint from 4 rooms of trim that had oil paint on them and someone painted latex over them and it was peeling off. when we went to paint over the trim, we had the paint coming off on our brushes, so i investigated with my paint rep and they told me the original paint was oil, but someone painted latex over it and you cant do that. That was my first experience with it. we had to scratch all the latex paint off and paint oil over it and it is still doing great.

The next project was some trim in 2 rooms that my men thought was latex because the house wasn’t that old, and they painted it with latex. needless to say it started to peel off when dry the next day. we had to scrape all of it off and repaint it with oil and it to is doing great 3 years later. the paint rep told me that latex would’nt stick to oil because the il dries so hard that the surface is so slick the latex can’t stick to it and peels off, which is exactly what happend to all the jobs i have redone.

I have had to repaint much trim that someone else didn’t know what they were doing, so i am going to continue to paint oil over latex, and if someone else has luck painting latex over oil and it sticks then great! The only way i have found to paint latex over oil is to prime over the oil based paint with a product called Zinsser cover stain sealer, that is a primer sealer and itwill stick to oil and allow latex to stick to it.    

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thanks for commenting chris,  shannon

Priming and Painting new sheetrock, drywall, wallboard properly

Priming and Painting new sheetrock, drywall, wallboard properly

In order to paint new Sheetrock so you can’t see fuzzed up paper or see all the places mud was put on, you must prime the entire surface.

I use a latex primer to cover over the entire surface, mud and all. The Sheetrock soaks up primer at a greater rate that mud does. when you prime it you will notice the paper areas where there is no mud, soaking the primer and the areas with mud gets covered fairly easily.

Don’t thin your primer with water if your rolling it on and use very little if your spraying it on. If you go into new construction houses after MOST painters prime them, you will see through the primer to the paper of the Sheetrock, that’s because they thin the primer to save money and that’s not right. They get very mad at me when i tell them it isn’t done right, and i have had to paint some walls in some houses before because the painter told the home owner the reason they can see all the mudded places on the walls was because of the Sheetrock finishing. when in fact it was because they thinned down the primer and then the paint to not have to buy as many materials so they could make more money.

That’s wrong, and every time i prove them wrong. i go in and roll primer on a wall and then pole sand it with 120 grit paper to remove any fuzzed up places or trash, them i paint it and you cant see anything but a flat wall.

There’s no excuse for it except laziness and greed.

I know i just made alot of painters mad, but i believe in doing a job right. The paint manufactures have set guidelines for a reason, and it doesn’t say you can thin a 5 gallon bucket of paint with 5 gallons of water. most say use up to a gallon at most per 5 gallons. and that’s for spraying. I might use a quart in 5 gallons if I’m rolling it on.

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hope this helps

Repair Plaster with Fast Setting Sheetrock Mud That Last Longer Then Plaster and Takes 1/4 of the Time and Skill

Repair Plaster with Hot Mud

The plaster repair I speak of is called Hot Mud, a powder type, fast setting, joint compound that comes in ranges from 5 minutes to 90 minutes drying times. The 5 minute type is for small repairs and 90 minutes is for larger repairs. When it sets up it’s like concrete and water will not desolve it when it dries. The best brand is USG. I’ve tried several brands but do not like any of the others. The advantages are great for using “hot mud”, it dries so quick, mixes with water and is sandable, and you can mix as little or as much as needed in a pan or bucket. I’ve repaired cracks without even taping them and never had them crack again.

How To cut and Hang Drywall

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How To Finish Drywall

Repairing & Fixing Drywall

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For the info Click Here!